Hold onto your wine glasses, folks, for the thrilling tale of the Abel selection of Pinot Noir, featuring a daring heist, a chance encounter, and a winemaker’s unyielding dedication to harnessing its potential. Our story begins in the 1970s when a brave Kiwi traveler decided to smuggle cuttings from the legendary vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy into New Zealand.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is a titan in the world of wine, synonymous with unparalleled quality and prestige, producing some of the most sought-after and expensive wines on the planet. Our intrepid traveler concealed these precious vines within a humble gumboot, hoping to bring a piece of Burgundy’s magic to New Zealand.
Enter Malcolm Abel, a Customs Officer who was also a winemaker, who discovered and confiscated the cuttings. Recognizing their immense value, Abel paid for the cuttings to undergo quarantine before nurturing them to life in his Kumeu vineyard.
Clive Paton, the future founder of the famed Ata Rangi vineyard in Martinborough, worked a vintage with Abel and subsequently took some of the extraordinary plant material to his own vineyard. The Abel selection soared to stardom as the foundation of Ata Rangi’s award-winning Pinot Noir wines, earning monikers like the “Ata Rangi Clone” and, affectionately, the “Gumboot Clone.”
The Abel selection, known for its fertility and productivity, requires careful regulation in the field to achieve bountiful wine yields. With robust vigor and a penchant for late maturity, it boasts larger bunches and heavier clusters than other clones.
In the winery, Abel shines, producing intense, full-bodied wines with exceptional color and tannin. While some winemakers blend Abel with other clones, singular masterpieces like Ata Rangi wines and Larry McKenna’s “Kupe” from Escarpment showcase its prowess.
So, fellow Pinot Noir enthusiasts, keep your eyes peeled for the Abel selection – a uniquely New Zealand treasure with a captivating history that elevates its mystique, carrying with it a hint of the esteemed Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s legacy.
One of the pinot noirs I’ve tried and loved was the Fenton Road vintage from the Bannockburn region and enjoyed it. Are there others that you’ve enjoyed?
Sources:
Recommended documentary: A Seat at the Table (Amazon Prime)
Drinking World History 